Destination "San Juan Islands"

Destination "San Juan Islands"

In less than three days I'll be pulling the boat, We will have one day at home to load provisions and then Sunday hit the road for Bellingham Washington. Squalicum Harbor has free parking, so I've decided to launch there.  For a float plan I have only the first nights destination, (Eagle Harbor at Cyprus Island) after that we will decide as we go. Weather could easily (fog) make my choices for me. We have set aside up to two weeks although past trips have never exceeded one week.  I have a few stops that I'd like to include, a day visit to Olga on Orcas Island, plus a walk around the lake at Moran State Park on Orcas. Every year I want to spend the day in Haro Strait watching whales, maybe this year it will work out.  We could cross Haro and go to Butchart Gardens, but that means dealing with customs both ways and is a little bit of a negative. I really like the breakfast they put out at Roche Harbor, so food could sway me that direction. Roche also has good ice cream cones.  Just sitting and doing nothing at Jones Island could take two days; that reminds me, I need to pack some more books if I'm going to do nothing.  We are meeting some friends at Cyprus, and tentatively plan to meet up some more at Sucia and other stops.  I expect to try to motor as little as possible, using tidal currents and wind to get us around, last year we used almost

nine gallons of fuel, this year I'm bringing three more gallons but will try to use less. We have just installed a new to me outboard, I've been experiencing some problems but I think I have everything under control. As usual the dinghy will be towed astern with it's 7.5 Honda clamped on the transom, we don't really need a motor
on the dinghy but I've grown accustomed to having a back up motor with me.  We can always use the dinghy for exploring shoreline and the motor may come in handy for long distance but I'm  reluctant to motor very far knowing I'll have to row back should the motor quit.  Jaiden has his inflatable kayak so he can get to shore and entertain himself. I need to remember a heavy duty waterproof zip lock for the portable radio and make sure Jaiden takes it with him when he kayaks off.  Cell phones work very well in most areas, we need to be sure to bring chargers. Tonight I think I'll start a food list, I'm leaning a lot towards pastas and one pan meals I can heat on the burner.  Last year we lost all our fresh water when a switch stuck on and pumped it overboard via the galley sink.  (we were on shore) now we have a new pump and new switch, but I think a separate jug packed away is the lesson learned.

I'll try to add to this blog, maybe I'll have some good tips to pass along
OK, here's some news (bad news) I just checked on a nonresident combo fishing shellfish license for Washington $89.00 ouch, my son who is 13 may have to do without, I really wish the government would butt out with all the regulations.

July 22nd, were back and I have some news to report

1st off  Squalicum Harbor is the best place for jumping off to the San Juans, I know of.  The boat ramp is four lanes, in great condition, there's a fresh water rinse. We launched at low tide and had no problems. The parking is free, even for multi-week stays. There are nice clean restrooms and showers and a great restaurant overlooking the marina. I never worried once about leaving my truck and trailer parked for nine days.

Tip: if your coming  a long way like we did, put your boat in the water upon arrival (24/7)  and stay at the guest dock, the fee is 75 cents a foot.

Here's our trip in a bottle. After having a great breakfast on the dock we rigged boat and cast off about 11am by 6 pm we were tied to an anchor buoy in Eagle Harbor, Cyprus Island. We sailed most of the way on a broad reach and only tacked once for a wind shift. The next day we hiked to Cyprus lake, 1,050 foot gain and about eight miles round trip.

 We moved the boat that evening about a mile to Pelican beach so we could go ashore and have a campfire. 

The tide wasn't going our way until afternoon so we spent the next morning hiking to Smugglers Cove on the Rosario Strait side of Cyprus. We got under way for Matia Island as soon as we got back to Sunshine (our boat). Luckily the four boat dock at Matia had only three boats when we arrived, so we got the last spot.  The other skippers were quick to warn us how shallow the water would be at low tide, I assured them that Sunshine's lifting keel would handily save the day. We spent two nights at Matia, which was not unexpected, our past visits have always been special.  We hiked a point we have never hiked and a Bald Eagle visited the cove.



On the morning of the sixth day we cast off for Shallow Bay on Sucia Island, Jaiden had requested a stop at China Caves
The tide was out so landing was difficult, we finally had to scramble up some slippery rocks to avoid getting wet

I doubt we will come ashore at shallow bay again, Echo Bay is closer and has a steep dinghy beach at all tides. The walk to Shallow bay is only ten minutes across the isthmus from Echo Bay.

In the one hour or less we were ashore at Shallow Bay the falling tide left our dinghy high and dry, fortunately I was able to work it into deeper water without too much mess. We left for Jones Island minutes later. Still no sailing winds, but we are making good use of the currents, several times I calculated a three mph boost which is very helpful to a five mph boat,  Another way to look at it is, going against the current turns us into a two mph boat at wide open throttle.
We are surprised to find lots of dock space at Jones Island, but thirty minutes after our arrival all the rooms at the inn are full.  Linda and I leave Jaiden guarding the boat and fending for himself while we hike the "more difficult" west end loop trail.

When we returned to the dock Jaiden had already collected firewood for the evenings fire. A light rain was coming down so I fashioned a tarp to keep us dry while cooking hot dogs and marshmallows.  We spent the evening running from smoke and watching the nearby deer.  The deer on Jones are quite tame and tolerate our presence well during the day, but in the dark we can walk up to them. The next day a photographer told me that all the San Juan deer are small, but from my own observations I believe the Jones Island deer are much smaller. My plan to whale watch in Haro strait is dashed when we wake to fog, I listen to the marine weather forecast and make the decision to run from the fog, we cast off from Jones in a light rain and no wind.  Our next destination is Deer Harbor, about two and a half miles.  As we leave the protection of the cove we are swept the wrong way, whirlpools and eddy's tug on our keel when I try to change course. Eventually I take us a quarter mile off shore to avoid the turbulence caused by underwater ravines and ridges extending from Jones Island. At Deer Harbor we motor slowly past the marinas deep into the cove, I'm looking for a public dock I've read about, up ahead I see some masts and a float but we are stopped short when Sunshine runs aground. A quick glance at the sounder reading 5.3 feet verify's we are no longer floating.  My first thought is all the locals watching us, probably smug in their local knowledge, knowing we were headed for trouble. Without acting the least bit concerned or even acknowledging we were aground I put Sunshine in reverse and give her a little throttle to no avail. Normally with a soft mud bottom I would rev her up and throw the tiller hard over powering my way around 180 degrees, but this would simply admit to all we were stuck and give them a bigger show to talk about, instead I calmly descended down the companion way slipped the keel winch handle into its slot and cranked a few turns raising the keel out of the mud. Linda verified we were floating free so I returned to the helm and smugly ran Sunshine forward and slowly turned around for a reverse course back to the Deer Harbor dock.  Anyone watching would swear we were aground and then just drove off.  Once in deeper water I lowered the keel back to its six foot depth. The Deer Harbor dock boy came running when we approached the gas pumps but we glided past and tied to the yellow painted county dock. With no consideration for others I took the first space rather than the last where it may be shallow.  We have never gone ashore at Deer Harbor so decided to take a walk up the only paved road. We turned around at the closed  (dinners only) Deer Harbor Inn about half a mile or less. Back on the wharf Jaiden ordered $4 french fries for us to share, I bought a tub of Ben and Jerry's, Linda picked up a sack of ice,  we returned to the boat for sandwiches and ice cream.  Since we don't have refrigeration we were forced to eat all the Ben and Jerry's before casting off for Orcas landing.

On the way to Orcas we sneak through pole pass, while approaching the narrow (100 foot or less) pass a group of kayaks shoot through riding the swift current. I have the autopilot engaged and the motor at about one quarter throttle, the opposing current and accompanying eddy's are tossing us around but I'm impressed how well our tiller pilot is holding course.  About half way through our forward speed is matched by the current and we no longer make headway, I'm forced to increase throttle if we want to win this mini battle of titanic forces. Once again we move against the current with our trusty tiller pilot holding a steady course.  As fast as we had slowed entering Pole Pass we pick up speed once clear of the pass, I return the throttle to one quarter and push buttons on the pilot setting course across West Sound.  Most of the trip is made with the tiller pilot steering Sunshine, I only take manual control during the last few hundred feet approaching docks and in extremely turbulent eddy's where the pilot can't react fast enough to avoid spinning in circles.

Its only about three and a quarter miles to Orcas landing, the rain has left a clean odor.  No other boats are at the dock, we can berth on the inside or outside.  The inside is more protection from passing boat wakes, but our lines and fenders are already set for outside tie up. On the other hand I could turn the boat around, park on the inside and then our fenders would be all set.  I look around and don't see any ferry's or big yachts and decide to take the outside.  We ghost up to the dock right below the restaurant windows. Jaiden and I both step off with lines in hand like we had done this a million times before. Orcas Landing consists of a few gift shops and store plus a restaurant. Across the road are nice public restrooms and a picnic area.  All these niceties exist due to the ferry terminal, cars waiting to board are parked in a double row extending up the hill.  I wonder if the ferry will have room for all of them, or will some have to wait for a later ferry. Jaiden spots the ferry coming around Shaw Island and asks to go down to watch it land.  We stand right out in front in the foot passenger line, Linda thinks we may be forced to board the vessel when the rush of ten passengers overwhelms us. Don't worry I think the confusion with all the cars will afford our getaway. The ferry comes in super slow with no drama at all, must be a new skipper, being so cautious and all.  While preparing to cast off a guy with a big dog in a small dinghy asks us for a tow across to Blind Bay.  We oblige and only twenty feet out from the dock manage to run over the tow line killing our motor and fouling the prop. The current is carrying us towards the still berthed ferry. I'm not worried about damaging the ferry boat should we drift into it but the backwash from its churning propellers is a little disconcerting. (ferry captains like to keep their engines pushing against the terminal to stabilize while loading)  With help from our friend in the little dinghy we get the prop cleared and get under way at about the same time the ferry backs out. Thirty minutes later we drop our tow in blind Bay, he would have had a very hard time rowing across the current.  

James Island is our next port of call, the current is finally helping us.  Its about eight miles to James, our speed is over 5 mph, I announce we will arrive in two hours and most likely have to anchor out.  The dock at James only holds four boats similar to Matia, and we will be getting their late so not much chance of any room.

As we clear the tip of Lopez Island I spot a ferry coming out of Thatcher Pass into Lopez sound, at some point we will have to cross paths with this behemoth so I start thinking evasive action. I figure hes going to the terminal at Lopez and will need to make a big sweeping turn, unless of course he pulls up and backs in so the cars are pointed the right direction.  I decide to not chance going between the terminal and the onrushing ferry and take a more off shore course.  This adds a mile to our slow boat ride.  The ferry fly's by not stopping at Lopez, apparently its an express and we didn't need to change course at all.  Spencer Spit Park is on our starboard side, we have never stopped their before.  I see lots of boats at anchor and on buoys, we keep on going maybe will stop next year. We pop through Thatcher Pass head on into a nasty current running between James and Decatur Island, I steadily pour on the coal to make headway, the eddy's are tossing us around like we are the small boat we are. The tiller pilot hasn't got a chance. I'm two handing the tiller and making enemy's with a couple guys in a fishing skiff that think I cut across their lines on purpose, they reel in and roar away.  We are so close to the protection of the cove, and yet totally at the mercy of the ferocious tidal current.  I see a trawler yacht heading from the other direction into the cove and raft up with a sailboat.  I tell Jaiden and Linda we are too late to get a place at the dock and go over anchoring instructions with Jaiden.  This will be his first time anchoring, he doesn't show any of the nervousness that I feel. Jaiden has the binoculars out and announces there is room behind the sailboat, they aren't rafting at all.  Another lucky landfall for us, we circle around so we are tying up on our preferred port side, a boy Jaidens age takes our line and helps us settle in. Later he and Jaiden  fish and hike together. 

 The next morning while sitting in the cockpit,  I notice Otter tracks all over Sunshine and the other boats, Linda mentions she had heard them walking about during the night. While I'm making the morning coffee an Otter climbs up on the dock, shakes off like a dog and then proceeds to poo on the trawlers coiled dock line.  Otters may be cute and cuddly to some, but they are really messy and crude on James Island.

After Breakfast all the other boats leave for parts unknown, Linda dives into a book and Jaiden and I climb the north summit.  The lower south summit has lots of trails but the north has only animal trails forcing us to bushwhack most of the way.  We sneak up on some deer and once again, I'm convinced the deer on Jones are much smaller, and of course these deer are not tame at all and spook when they see us. The north summit is anticlimactic, has no view, but was an easy climb. Jaiden fell on his behind right after I told him to slow down.  Back at sea level I can see the current has started heading north, my hint to get going, so we cast off.  After running into some opposing current Linda mentions the charts don't show the current changing for another hour, and why did we leave. I said I could see the current was going our way but apparently it was only around James, crossing Rosario Strait was a crab walk correcting for drift while still making headway.  I chose to skirt the southern end of Cyprus Island and then ride the flood all the way to Bellingham.


We crossed our track of a week earlier when we went by Eagle Harbor, the wind came up blowing down Hale Passage and we were able to broad reach all the way back to Squalicum Harbor, only the second chance to really sail the entire trip. From James to Bellingham is about twenty miles, with the flood tide, a fresh breeze and a little iron jenny we tied up at Squalicum in time for dinner on shore.